THERMAX DV12 THERMINATOR PARTS DIAGRAM
and problemsolving list

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COMMON PROBLEMS WITH THE THERMAX 'THERMINATOR DV-12/CP-12
With any problem of a component not operating, make sure that all wires are connected to the machine terminal block and switches!
PUMP NOT OPERATING
The first thing to determine is if the pump is running (you can hear the motor). If it is, go to 'a' if not 'b'
a. If the pump is running but water does not spray out of the wand, you most likely have a pump that no longer is generating pressure. In some cases, replacing the diaphragm portion of the unit will resolve the problem. If the pump is very old, however, you may not be able to get an ample seal when you rebuild the pump, so in that case you should replace the entire pump.
b. If the pump is not running at all when you turn on the switch, you first should determine whether the pump switch, and/or the main power switch, is bad. With the machine unplugged, place an electric meter tester on the black and white wires that connect to the pump at the quick disconnects. Plug the machine in and turn on the main switch and pump switch, if you have juice running to the pump, your pump is shot, if you don't have electricity running to the pump, either you main switch (preheat/run) or pump switch is bad. If you check behind either switch, you most likely will see which one is burned out.
NO VACUUM SUCTION
Are the vacuum motor(s) running? Go to 'a.' No vacuum motor(s) running? Go to 'b'
a. If the vacuum motors are running and you either have low suction or no suction at all, first check to make sure both vacuum motors are running. Unclip the machine at the front and run both vac motors with the machine open. Switch between dual vac and single vac mode, if you notice that one of the two vacuum motors is not running, go to 'b,' if both are running, read on. Check to make sure that your dome assembly (the clear dome on the top of the recovery tank) has a black gasket on it. If it doesn't, or it is partially ripped off, you need a new one. If the dome is ok, check to make sure that the ball located on the goose necked shape shut off assembly inside the recovery tank is not stuck to the top of the screened housing. Hit the goose neck GENTLY with a wrench or hammer and if you hear the ball drop, it's not new years rockin' eve, you fixed your problem. Still haven't found your problem, check the top vacuum motors gasket by removing it from the bottom of the recovery tank (three screws), if the gasket has wiggled it's way to the center of the vacuum intake, you need to fix that and you're problem's solved. Still haven't found the problem? Check to make sure your tank hasn't bowed in. With the machine off, look at the dome assembly from the sides and see if the gasket is touching the top of the tank all the way around, if there's a gap, you need to sand down the high points so the dome sits flat on the top.
b. If one or both vacuum motors are not running, first check the main power (preheat/run) and vacuum switches condition by removing the face plates that hold the switch and inspecting the wires behind the switch, any burned wires indicate the switch is bad and must be replaced. Then, with an electric meter tester, check to see if the vacuum motor in question is getting electricity, if it isn't one of the two aforementioned switches is bad, if it is, you have a bad vacuum motor: With the machine unplugged, gently hit the brushes housing with the handle of a screwdriver. Plug the machine in and turn the switch on, if the vacuum motor now runs, you need to either tighten or replace your brushes. If the vacuum motor still doesn't work, makes a grinding sound when it runs or sparkes a lot, invest in a new vacuum motor.
NO HEAT
First, most new machines have a Thermo Reset button underneath the solution tank next to the leads to the heater. Hit that button and then try to heat the machine. Also check to make sure the wires to the heater element are in good shape, and burned wires should be replaced.
If the machine still doesn't heat water, check your main power switch condition by unscrewing the face plate and inspecting the back of the switch for any burned wires, if you see any, the switch must be replaced!
If you still haven't figured out the problem, we recommend you call us. The electrical test to figure out whether you have a bad thermostat or bad heater element requires we first identify which vintage of machine you have. Call us at 877-622-8321 toll free.
reference # | part # | part description |
1 | 24-005-01 | DV-12 dome assembly includes gasket |
3 | 24-007-01 | Lid assembly |
7 | 02-511-00 | DPDT main switch |
9 | 32-578-122 | Pilot light kit |
11 | 02-502-00 | DPDT vacuum motor switch |
12 | 02-503-00 | SPST pump motor switch |
17 | 27-012-120 | Power cord w/ strain relief |
23 | 25-303-120 | 1800w heater 120V w/ o-rings and bolts |
29 | 30-100-01 | DV12 vacuum motor with gasket |
39 | 02-677-00 | Thermal switch, 15A with thermal mastic |
46 | 33-723-00 | Terminal Strip, DV-12 |
50 | 02-680-00 | Thermal reset switch with thermal mastic |
65 | 03-453-00 | Solution hose coupler |
73 | 31-178-00 | 100psi Shurflo Pump |
76,71 | 20-160-000 | Hose kit, complete set for pump assembly |
84 | 01-600-00 | Gate valve with o-ring |
85,86,88 | 01-360-00 | Inlet kit, with o-ring and "T" assembly |
89 | 22-795-00 | Riser tube assembly |
90 | 37-752-00 | Shut off assembly |
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